When it comes to skincare, the sheer volume of products in the wild can be overwhelming. Where does one begin to get that smooth, bouncy, coveted foundation-free glow? Well let me fill you in on a dirty little skincare secret: pH is like a crystal ball. Measure the pH of any skincare product, and you’ll get a glimpse of how the product will affect your skin’s future (before you’ve even applied it!).
pH basics (and acids)
You likely remember the concept of pH from high school and college chem classes. It measures the concentration of hydrogen ions in a watery solution, and it’s measured on a scale of 0 to 14. Water has a neutral pH level of 7. Anything with pH lower than 7 is considered acidic, and anything with a pH higher than 7 is considered alkaline (also known as basic).
pH and skincare
It’s intuitive that citrus juices and vinegar have low pH and are considered acidic. Soaps, bleach, and other cleaning agents tend to have higher pH and are therefore basic. So where do skincare products lie on the pH spectrum?
As it turns out, many foaming cleansers are highly basic. That’s a problem because the ideal pH level of your skin is acidic: between 4 and 5.51. Since the late 1920s2, scientists have referred to the outermost layer of skin as the “acid mantle.” When healthy, the acid mantle act as a protective barrier and fights off inflammation. Raising the acid mantle’s pH (with a basic foaming cleanser, for example) messes with its ability to do those things, leaving your skin more susceptible to rosacea, dermatitis, and acne (a study found that chronic acne was associated with higher skin pH2).
Toners and serums to the rescue
But if you’re like me, you love that *clean* feeling after using a foaming cleanser – there’s a reason humans have used soap as a cleaning agent for thousands of years. So what’s a skincare-conscious girl (or guy) to do? This is where toners and serums enter the picture.
By applying an acidic toner and serum after you cleanse, you lower your acid mantle’s pH to healthier levels. In fact, any product you apply after cleansing should be acidic, having a pH between 4 and 6. You can measure the pH of any water-based topical skincare product with these easy-to-use, inexpensive pH measuring strips from Amazon. I keep these strips handy to measure the essence pH of any sheet mask I try, as well. The vast majority of skincare companies are now savvy enough to develop products with low pH, but you can never be too careful! Here are my favorite toners and serums (with pre-measured pH) in case you’re on the market for some new ones:
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Low pH toners
L’Occitane Immortelle Essential Water
pH level: 5.5
Why I love it: It’s full of moisture-boosting botanicals. I pat it on my face after washing, and it elevates every skincare product I apply thereafter: my moisturizer absorbs better, my sunscreen goes on more smoothly, primer feels more velvety.
MUN Anarose Hydrating Rose Toner
pH level: 4.5 – 5
Why I love it: MUN’s Anarose Hydrating Toner leaves skin soft, supple, bouncy, and extra-receptive to moisturizer, thanks to its rosewater and hyaluronic acid content. It removes every last trace of makeup without drying out my face and smells like a dreamy herb garden.
Low pH serums
Troiareuke Acsen Selemix Serum
pH level: 5.5
Why I love it: This stuff breaks the bank, but it’s worth it. I haven’t had a single breakout since I started using this serum. It has a natural, delicate herbal scent and leaves skin bouncy and refreshed-feeling. It boasts clove flower and sophora root extracts, which are beneficial for acne and wrinkle-prone skin.
Peach Slices Citrus-Honey Aqua Glow Hydrating Moisture Gel
pH level: 5.5
Why I love it: This stuff does not break the bank ($11 and available at your local CVS!), and it’s worth it. Citrus oils and annatto seed extract flatten bumps and calm breakouts. My skin feels more hydrated and less flaky since I started using it under my moisturizer.
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Moral of the story
Make sure all your post-cleanse skincare products are within the 4 to 6 pH range (you can measure with pH strips from Amazon), and you’ll be well on your way to smooth, clear, glowy skin.
1“Natural skin surface pH is on average below 5, which is beneficial for its resident flora.” National Center for Biotechnology Information. 1 Oct 2006. Web. 21 Feb 2018.
2“Skin Surface pH in Acne Vulgaris: Insights from an Observational Study and Review of the Literature.” National Center for Biotechnology Information. 1 Jul 2017. Web. 21 Feb 2018.
